Fishing Line
Fishing Line - what you need to know
There are many different brands on the market when it comes to fishing line. And it seems it is a matter of preference. I truly believe this. I have fished with several different anglers throughout the years and most have their "favorite". When it comes to fishing line, money should not be a factor. No matter what bait you throw or what rod and reel combo you use, the line is the most important factor between you and the fish. Stick with the major manuafactures and buy fishing line from a store that has a lot of sales. You want your fishing line fresh; sounds funny, but it's true. In our desert heat, fishing line can deteriorate at a fast rate.
I began my fishing using Trilene's Big Game in the green tint. It was an excellent line for the price. The only drawbacks of the line was the stiffness of the line and the darker shade of green that it came in. I started using McCoy because of my team partner and the popularity here in the desert. I loved the lighter shade of green and loved the softness and limpness which made it extremely easy to manage. The only thing is I lost the stiffness; McCoy had much more stretch. The next line I moved to was P-Line CXX; similar to Big Game, but with a lighter shade of green (yellow/greenish). I could bring up a house with this stuff, but I didn't like how it coiled, and it was a thicker line than I was used to with the McCoy.
The years are going by and I keep switching from the three brands above, not finding what I like. At this time, the fluorocarbon craze is just begining, but I was not liking the price tag, and I said I would never switch. I started working tackle shows for friends and I purchased a spool of Maxima. After that spool, I have never used anything else. I got the shade of green I wanted, I got a limp line and super strong. I began to try the different pound tests and found my comfort zone.
Through the next couple of years, I began getting to the know the reps for Maxima and "donating" my time to work their booths. I was a true ambassador for the line, since no one was paying me to talk about it. I have switched to using mostly fluorocarbon but continue to use the original green mono. I feel I have the best line on the market with a price tag that is extremely competitive. I am now on their Pro Staff and extremely proud to represent them. Their motto speaks for it's self: "The Best by Test"
If you are new to the fluorocarbon craze I will give you a brief description of the difference between fluorocarbon and mono. The basic properties of fluoro are that it is virtually invisible in water, low to no stretch, it sinks, more sensitive than mono, and not as abrassion resistent as mono. Monofiliment can be low visible (green tint) but has some image to it, it stretches, and has better abrassion resistence than fluoro.
To be versitile angler, you need to fish and understand both. I throw fluorocarbon on anything that sinks or I want to sink and I throw mono on reaction baits and things that I want to float (topwater). My rule of thumb is this; since fluoro isn't as abrassion resistent, I go up a pound test that I would fish with mono. Example: If I'm throwing jig on 10 pound mono, I will switch to 12 pound fluoro to gain the invisible advantage. Here are my typical setups for everyday fishing on Lake Mead (average fish of 2 pounds with an occassional 4 or 5 pounder - mostly rocky structure and now we have flooded trees):
baitcast reel with 12 pound fluoro - 6'6" MH rod - jig/tube/tx worm
baitcast reel with 15 pound fluoro - 6'6" MH rod - 3/8oz to 1/2oz spinnerbait
spinning reel with 6 pound mono - 6'8" M rod - drop shot/darter head
baitcast reel with 10 pound mono - 6'6" M rod - crankbait/topwater/jerkbait